Hair, modesty, and a kick-ass attitude: how to travel by yourself and maintain your safety and peace of mind — my thoughts on traveling solo as a single woman.
While in my mid-20s I spent 18 months backpacking around the world, starting from San Francisco, California and heading to Central America (long term stays in Mexico, and Guatemala, zipping through Honduras, El Salvador, and Nicaragua, and staying for a while in Costa Rica and Panama), to South America (crossing the Darién Gap into Colombia, visiting Ecuador, a six-week stay in Peru, visiting Bolivia, and passing through Paraguay on the way to Argentina), Africa (longer-term stays in Capetown, South Africa as well as Harare, Zimbabwe and Bamako, Mali), Europe (traveling through Morocco, Spain, and Greece), long-term stays in Cairo and Jerusalem, visiting Turkey (Ankara and Istanbul), crossing overland into Iran for six weeks, and ending up with a six-week stay in India, based in Delhi and Dharamsala.
The project was for an educational nonprofit with a beloved set of teammates, and we traveled as singles, as same-gender and mixed-gender couples, and as a whole group to different destinations, interviewing local people and visiting cultural and historically-significant sites.
Here are some of my thoughts on how I felt, behaved, and attempted to keep my cool during that journey, particular on long stretches where it was just me and my backpack, for weeks on end.
I’ve broken these down into planning, hair, modest dress, attitude, grit, loneliness, and relationships.
I do believe that every traveler is on their own journey and will be finding out (on their own) the best way to fit the travel, the culture shock, the fatigue, the excitement, and the overall newness of any situation into their own life. These are some of my own experiences and ideas about how I coped.
Planning
Making sure I took time to plan out my routes was very important at each separate leg of the journey. Nothing is worse than arriving on a bus in a strange town with no plan, none of the local currency, and no idea what to eat or where to stay for the night.
Planning was made more easy by connecting with other travelers either through hostels, internet search, or word-of-mouth on the long-haul buses and trains. As a group, we had to go from one place to another, but then could stay in our key cities for a longer span of time. So we would spend a few days in one place then move forward, but then would stay in another village or town or city for a month and a half, really getting to know culture, customs, routines, individuals, and the place.
As much as possible, knowing what my next few hours or days looked like, helped keep me focused and helped me avoid difficult situations. When unexpected or unscheduled stops did happen, I did as much as possible to keep my cool and not get too anxious… a great example was being on an overnight bus, and not realizing in advance that the bus would stop in a town square so the driver could sleep for 4-5 hours, with all passengers having to disembark and basically lay down in the street until sunrise. This was made a little more manageable by always having my sleeping bag and a light cotton sleep sack with me, as well as always carrying triple heavy duty garbage bags which doubled as a tarp to put down on the (rainy/muddy) road.
Whenever possible I tried to embed myself with a local school, religious group, or educational institution with a homestay.
Some places have a set-aside program or lodgings for travelers, such as the Golden Temple in Amritsar, where all the non-locals were housed together in “traveler’s quarters” while visiting this special shrine.
Casa Alianza / Covenant House was a trusted and valued partner on my very first Mexico stay. This may not be possible for every traveler, but staying for a longer while and getting to know people in the community made a difference and humanized the experience, for me and for those with whom I was visiting. For example, I arranged to have weekly Spanish lessons with the hostel manager in San Jose, Costa Rica, which gave me additional insight into home and family, that I wouldn’t have received by just passing through on a relentless schedule.
Hair
Hair is tough to think about for me.
Long hair is immediately noticeable and is a liability in places where long hair in public is not expected or worse, is considered provocative. I cut my hair extremely short (buzz cut) in Egypt, started wearing pants and formless shirts, and experienced an immediate decline in cat calls, and unwanted attention.
Note that expectations differ from country to country, so if possible, using a hair covering, a shawl, or scarf in the pattern of the local custom, and always have it available. This helps the single woman traveler “blend in” with everyone else.
Modest dress
Similar to hair, I noticed the overall way I dressed either helped me fade in to the crowd or made me stick out (and I already stuck out as an Asian woman with no visible male companion).
When I dressed more modestly, then the people around me responded in kind – by respecting me, or not aggressively interacting with me more than needed. I covered up cleavage, neck, arms, legs, and hair when others expected it, or when other students or young women were wearing a similar style.
I usually wore long skirts, again switching out materials as I went from place to place, so I always looked similar to the people nearby. I almost never went out in shorts unless I was at a beach.
Solo backpacking was the first time I had to be more thoughtful about my clothes and I realized that it was simply custom in the different places I visited, for women to be more modest. By wearing more revealing clothing, I would be opening myself up as a target for unwanted attention. It also helped the few times I wore a wedding ring and mentioned my (non-existent) “husband” or “fiance.”
Attitude
I always tried to remember that I was a guest in-country, that I was owed nothing, and I came from a place of great privilege to be able to live (on the cheap!) for as long as I liked, with the ability to pick up and leave whenever I wanted.
Many local economies benefit immensely from the backpacking or tourism trade, while also having sticky issues where the money exchanged also impacts norms and ideas and expectations, for example, about women’s rights and a woman’s place in society.
In general I attempted to learn as many key phrases as I could, mentioned “please” and “thank you” in all situations, and tried to communicate, whenever possible, my humblest gratitude.
Many people are proud of their country, and genuinely want to share their customs, foods, music and dance, and traditions. A good attitude makes the difference between having a connection and participating in a strictly transactional relationship.
Grit
There will be unpleasant moments. Do not let anyone boss you, touch you without permission, or get into your headspace with negative energy. If it does happen, take time and care and space for yourself. I was assaulted, touched without consent and also catcalled, stolen from, pickpocketed, and generally messed with, and I found that I really was not mature enough to know what to do about a lot of this. Having a safe place to go to, and being connected with teammates or others going through the process, helped.
Loneliness
Loneliness is to be expected for anyone traveling alone, but I managed by breaking up the silence with periodic stretches of working/shadowing at a school, clinic, volunteer project, non-governmental organization, or community group. For example, in Jerusalem I participated in a Seeds of Peace retreat that brought together Israeli and Palestinian youth in a summer camp environment.
I would do as much as I could to find activities that made me feel happy and fulfilled. I enjoyed reading and trading paperbacks with other backpackers. I also enjoyed periodically treating myself to a nice meal out or going to any social gatherings that I would be invited to.
I can definitely remember the feeling of relief when finding someone (anyone!) who spoke English (my native language) and being able to share, talk, and commiserate. Know that, also, travel plans change and groups can form on-the-road in a fluid way. I would connect with other travel companions and switch up my routine, depending on how I was feeling.
Relationships
As an add-on to the discussion about loneliness, it’s perfectly normal to connect on an emotional level, and also on a physical level, with other travelers or with locals.
Being outside of a regular day-to-day routine adds to an overall sense of energy and excitement, which leads to many romances which blossom on the road.
Be aware that your heart may be broken on the trip, or you may break someone else’s heart. Alternatively, you may find your lifelong companion. Anything is possible and within the realm of probability.
Carry condoms, protect your heart, bring mosquito repellent, and go out there and explore. The world is waiting for you.